THE PAEKAKARIKI TO PUKERUA BAY KAPITI ESCARPMENT WALK

The Paekākāriki to Pukerua Bay Escarpment Track is a walking trail located on the Kapiti Coast of Aotearoa New Zealand. It forms a small section of the larger Te Araroa Trail, a long-distance hiking route that spans the length of the country. The Escarpment track stretches between the towns of Paekākāriki and Pukerua Bay, offering a coastal route that follows the natural escarpment overlooking the Tasman Sea and Kapiti Island. On a clear day you can also see some mountains in the South Island.

The track covers a distance of approximately 10km and involves sections of steep climbs and descents, making it suitable for walkers with a moderate level of fitness.

When I visited the trail it was a still and sunny spring day in late September. This was ideal as it was neither too hot for the exposed zig-zag climb, nor very windy. I would say this trail is to be avoided when there is a strong northerly, or in the middle of the day in the summer heat. 

The trail can be accessed by public transport or car. To reach the northern end of the track, one can take a train to Paekākāriki Station on the Kapiti Line, located approximately 45 minutes north of Wellington. From the station, the track entrance is a short walk. Alternatively, the track can be accessed from its southern end at Pukerua Bay, also reachable by train on the same line. The track runs between these two locations along a coastal route. 

For my visit I actually drove and parked in Paekākāriki, and chose to walk to the top of the hill and back. Next time, I will either drive to Pukerua Bay, leave the car there, then train up to Paekākāriki. Or alternately do the whole trip via train. I had started the walk too late in the day to do the whole walk then back in a single trip, plus, right now I’m not sure my lungs would be up to that task. 

When I visited, on a Sunday, Paekākāriki and it’s cafe’s were busy - with cyclists, walkers and day-trippers. The village itself has a number of old building and the station is also quite rustic and appealing. Of the small towns up the Kapiti coast it is the most quaint of the village centres. 

To get to the track start cross the railway track towards the main highway, turn right and walk for a few hundred meters to the railway overbridge. On the right hand side of the road, before crossing the bridge, there are some stairs which take you down under the road. This is the start of the trail. The stairs (going down) are easy to miss if you don’t know that is what you are looking for...something I only figured out after crossing the bridge then having to turn back.  

Initially the path runs parallel to the road and rail line, but soon you start climbing some stairs and the sound of traffic gives way to the sound of the surf below. Directly below you is a narrow strip of coast, just wide enough for the railway line, the road and then the rocky coast.

The terrain is quite dry and earthy, the main foliage being flax bushes and the occasional windswept cabbage tree. The Tui birds were out in force, although I didn’t see too much other birdlife. 

When you get to the top of the escarpment there are a few narrow sections with a steep drop off beside the trail. It is nothing really dangerous, however if you suffer from an acute fear of heights, then this trail might not be for you. 

Right at the top there is a picnic area, with plenty of bench seating under a grove of Cabbage trees. With a vista of the Tasman sea, Kapiti Island, the South Island and an expanse of blue ocean, this is a great rest spot.   

Photos taken on a Fujifilm GS645 and Ektar 100 film